A new way to Explore your City
The Sun was still hanging high in the sky and if I rushed, we could be on the road at a reasonable time still. This was my thought as I closed the shop and headed home to get on the road. Our migration south is tried and tested. We pile into the car after I get out of work and point the car south and drive 565 miles to my in-laws’ home in Virginia Beach. So, we were a bit ahead of schedule when I pulled into the driveway at about 3:30 am.
Most trips south are a week of relaxation and me sitting on the couch in the corner of the living room playing games on my laptop. I would go out for the various foods that I can’t get back home, visit friends and family, and not work for a week. Of course, that was the old me. This year would be different, I had lost about 60 pounds Read my story here and I was a hiker again. I had researched before we headed down to figure out where I could get some hikes in, and I had a plan. One that involved me getting up at 6 am on the Saturday morning after I had driven for 10 hours over night, on the back end of a full day of work and 6 miles run the morning before.
An Urban Adventure
Let’s take a step back just a tick. One of my favorite events during vacation in Tidewater is to visit the Olde Town Farmer’s Market in Portsmouth VA. It is only open Saturdays, so I’m in the habit of taking a quick nap and then heading over the morning we get down there anyway. The plan was flawless, I would fully utilize public transit in and around Norfolk. First, the light rail, from VA Beach to Norfolk. Then hike 10.5 miles. Catch the bus back downtown. Take the ferry across the river to Portsmouth where I would walk to the farmer’s market and meet my wife for a ride back to the house. And all that for like $6 for the day pass GoHRT to see the Tidewater public transit options.
Light rail to the trail head
So, we unpacked the car and I headed to bed for a couple hours. I was up at 5:30 and ask my mother in law if she could give me a ride to the Train stop. It turns out when you pack for a hike at 5:30 after driving 10 hours you forget that Urban means people. That being the case, I didn’t have a mask and I wasn’t going to be allowed to ride the light rail. Thankfully, the conductor gave me a disposable paper mask and the adventure was on. All this meant that I was stepping off the light rail at the gates to Norfolk State University some time around 7 am. Finally, my first Urban hike was set to begin.
Down by the Bay… well the River Anyway
The Beginning
The first leg of the trail cuts through downtown Norfolk, mostly along the waterfront. The trail is wide and flat and, in that area, it varies from hard packed gravel to cement. The first major landmark you pass is Harbor Park home of the Norfolk Tides, a minor league baseball team. From there the trail swings between the buildings and the river’s edge. At some points as you navigate the waterfront you are walking across the rear patios of Hotels and other buildings.
Waterside
The trail brings you right through the Waterside District through some very pleasant parks space and right along Nauticus, the final berthing of the USS Wisconsin. At that time of the morning the sun is still rising and the long beams of light that work through the skyline and the absence of other people made my passing of the battleship a somber experience and I did enjoy taking a few moments to explore the exterior of the area. From here I headed into the warren of narrow brick streets of the Freemason Historic District.
Freemason
When you are out hiking in the woods, there are magical finds tucked around every corner. To my surprise, Urban hiking is no different. Nestled among the buildings of downtown, near freemason harbor is a completely unexpected treat, the Pagoda and Garden is a rare piece of manicured green in a very urban setting. It is worth the slight detour to wander and explore, and to take a few minutes to remember why you are out walking in the first place.
The Hauge
From the peace of the pagoda and the relative quiet of Freemason you come spill out into the modern world. The tail splits here and you can continue along the river to Fort Norfolk, or take the loop that I did which is inland but I thought it was worth it. When I was hiking there was a detour that wrapped under Rt 58 (the major roadway here) but I’m not sure how that section works now, follow the signs and it is easy to get to the other side. A short walk from the roadway and you enter The Hauge. Not a hidden gem as much as an underutilized space. If you find yourself in Norfolk and want to just get out and wander in an urban green space, I highly recommend The Hauge. The trail follows the waterway, and you will see numerous people out enjoying themselves and the natural beauty.
Chelsea
The two branches of the trail reunite in Chelsea, a hip neighborhood that boasts several restaurants and breweries, all in a slightly industrial setting. It was just before 8 am when I reached this point and it was time for a breakfast detour. If you find yourself in Chelsea, hiking or any other reason and the hours are right, I highly recommend The Bakehouse at Chelsea. On Saturdays they open at 8 and I got there at 7:55, I was third in line. A ham and cheese croissant and cinnamon swirl later I was aiming back at the trail. This detour is only 3 blocks from where the branches of the trail merge and I have to admit, the ability to stop and grab food and drink while hiking is a serious plus for urban hiking.
Lambert’s Point & ODU
From here the trail runs along the Norfolk Southern rail terminal on its way to Lambert’s Point. You pass through a couple parks and follow Hampton Blvd before the trail dips back into the neighborhood streets. There are a couple sections of the trail that are a bit challenging to follow but considering much of this trail is along city streets, it is impressive that this was the first time on my journey that there was any confusion. Eventually the trail pulls away from the rail yards and swings through the campus of Old Dominion University. When I was passing through, it was summer break and the only students were soccer tryouts or some type of soccer camp. The campus is lovely, and the trail passes right through the middle headed to Larchmont Edgewater.
Larchmont, The Hermitage,…
Larchmont is a quiet neighborhood, much like many of the neighborhoods in that area of Norfolk. The trail sticks to the neighborhood streets, until it reaches the southern bank of the Lafayette River. This is perhaps the least pleasant section of the trail. You have to cross over the river and the only way to do that is a high, very busy Hampton Blvd bridge.
On the north side of the river and past the Norfolk Yacht and country club (no I’m not linking this one) it is back to the neighborhood streets. This is a beautiful neighborhood that is the home of the Hermitage Museum and Gardens. I didn’t stop here but it is an art museum and very well-kept gardens. Again, one of those special treats of urban hiking are the variety of things you can do and explore along the trail.
… and the End
After the museum grounds the trail follows a divided neighborhood road, the median is lined with crepe myrtle trees that provide the optimal amount of shade for the final leg that leads you out to Hampton Blvd and the northern terminus of the Elizabeth River Trail. There is no parking for the trail head here but there is a bus stop right at the corner, so public transit is an easy option.
Bussing it back
Driving is always faster than walking, right?
I had checked the bus schedule before I left and buses ran every 30 minutes starting at like 9. It was around 9:45 when I sat at the bus stop, this was perfect. I should be back downtown before 11. That would give me more than enough time to walk to the waterfront, catch the ferry and meet my wife at the farmer’s market. I watched 4 buses headed north drive past, all the while expecting one of them to turn around at the Naval base and head back downtown. At about 10:45, a bus pulled out of traffic and me and a pleasant gentleman mounted and headed downtown. The bus route on paper would go straight down Hampton Blvd and straight back to the bus depot. In reality, the bus we rode made two random circles in and around Sentara Hospital, where we eventually stopped to almost let a crazy (yes he was ranting to himself, pacing around) man on, but the driver decided that was not the best choice and locked the door and drove away. Eventually, nearly 11:30, we made it to the depot.
Across the Harbor
I watched them drift away
At this point, I was far less secure in available time. I had already told my wife that I should be across the river in Portsmouth by now and I still had to cover over half a mile to get to the ferry stop. I cinched up my pack and ran the final leg through Downtown Norfolk. There are some truly amazing sights to visit that I got to run past. If you have the time, I suggest making a day of it and wandering the downtown area, there is amazing history. Stop by St Paul’s Church and checkout the cannonball still lodged in the wall. Now, I thought I made really good time in this last scramble, unfortunately, it was just enough time to watch the ferry pull out into the river and head across to Portsmouth. Normally, the ferries run every 30 minutes, but with COVID and it still being early there was only one ferry running. So, I sat there and watched the ferry offload, go to the second stop on that side, sit and wait, and wait, and keep waiting. Finally, there was a puff of smoke and she was on her way.
I took a seat on the upper deck right in front of the paddlewheel. The ride across the river takes about 10-15 minutes. When I disembarked my wife and her friend were waiting. We turned and headed to the farmer’s market where I made a few purchases, but nothing overly exciting.
Thoughts on Urban Hiking
Urban Hiking is like nothing I’ve done before and I’m not sure I would have been ready to embrace the concept when I was younger. I’m only moderately embarrassed to admit that I may be a hiking snob. I am blessed to live in one of the best places for hiking and outdoor adventures in the world. I can step out my front door and be on a 20-mile trail that links into a network that I can follow to Canada, or hook up to the Appalachian Trail… quick jaunt to Georgia anyone?
I take for granted my proximity to nature and the beauty within. But, the urban setting can be truly spectacular and there is just as much unexpected beauty to be found. I wandered through such a diverse set of neighborhoods and spaces, each with its own story, its own personality, and its own hidden secrets. Traveling end to end I encountered dozens of people, each using their own little piece of the trail. That is something you don’t get much of on a trail in the woods, even a heavily used trail everyone is going to or coming from the same destination. There is something to be said for the ability to walk off the trail and get supplies, and even find some unique treats like a local bakery, brewery, or any other establishment you aren’t going to find on a regular hiking trail.
I enjoyed my first expedition into urban hiking. It is the perfect way to explore your city from a completely different perspective. The people who create and maintain these urban networks work hard and sometimes this is the trace of green in an otherwise concrete landscape. Another special feature is access. Unlike hiking trails deep in the mountains, these urban networks are open and available to everyone, the entire length of the ERT was wheelchair accessible.
I’m passionate about getting underrepresented groups on the trails and enjoying nature. I believe it is good for the soul, no matter who you are. So, if these accessible trails ignite a passion for someone living in the city; I am fully in favor of building them, maintaining them, and promoting them. Hiking isn’t just for those of us that live at the edge of the wild. Nature is all around us and it is waiting to be explored. So, what are waiting for? Get out and see the world around you.
If you are in the Tidewater area and you are interested in exploring the city from a different perspective, start here Elizabeth River Trail. Let me know your favorite place to hike and what your city offers. If you are curious to get out and explore but don’t know where to start, drop me a line mike@tagalongoutdoors.lilbudacreations.com and we can find your next adventure together
Mike Darcy
Mike lives in Southwestern New Hampshire with his wife, teenage child, dog, and cat. He leads guided hikes for all ages and skills levels around the region and volunteers his time with trail maintenance, planning, and promotion with various local trail organizations. Mike has put his outdoor knowledge and experience in courses which he offers both online and in person. You can follow his adventures via You Tube, Social Media, and this Blog
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